Day 41 - Saturday Buckie to Oldmeldrum
Quick facts
Weather forecast at Buckie:
Partly cloudy; H16 L 11 Humidity 89% at 6 am
Wind NW 6 kph
Sunset 19:44
POP 9% in the afternoon
Departure: Struan House, Cluny Square, Buckie, AB56 1AH
Destination: The Redgarth, Kirk Brae, Oldmeldrum, Inverurie, Aberdeenshire AB51 0DJ (Lorraine)
Destination: Aberdeen Arms Hotel 10 The Square, Tarves AB41 7GX (Ralph)
Planned distance to Tarves: 57.0 miles + 10 miles to Oldmeldrum 100 km
Planned ascent: 2,352
Planned descent: 2,205
Route: Photo from Ride With GPS
(Note: Pitmedden is very close to both Tarves and Oldmeldrum)
Good morning / Good day
Pitmedden
I woke up in my lovely BnB with my Scottish teddy bear beside me. The sun hadn’t come up over Buckie yet but that was only because it was early. It promises to be a beautiful day!
After breakfast I headed across Cluny Square to the shops and looked back on the beautiful gardens Giffie and his volunteers maintain.
The sky couldn’t be much bluer behind the BnB.
As mentioned in yesterday’s blog, Gilfford Leslie from Orkney and his partner Robert left the bustle of their “too successful” restaurant and hotel to buy Struan House and run a Bed and Breakfast instead. Sometime in its past it had been a nursing home.
Giffie is quite a gardener; the grounds are beautiful. This wheelbarrow near the front entrance is an example.
He has organized Buckie Roots which is a group who cares for the gardens in public places in town.
He also organized volunteers who make sure any garbage is picked up. The town’s appearance shows that people here care. I could say that has been my experience throughout Scotland.
Giffie had lots of stories to tell. He assured us he wasn’t from the Shetlands but sometime in 1754 a family home was owned there and lost in a card game. There are all sorts of stories in Scotland about land and estates being lost and won over cards.
The ride profile today reflects the fact that we are starting on the North Sea and pedaling to the Eastern Grampian Mountains. It is a beautiful ride I am sure … with the climb at the end of the day.
Ralph will be staying in Tarves at the Aberdeen Arms Hotel. Unfortunately when he booked he wasn’t able to get two rooms. I have found a spot in the next town over. Stuart Singer has been running The Redgarth for thirty years. He came highly recommended by the manager of the Aberdeen Arms and my first impression over the phone was pretty good!
I look forward to a lovely supper and very comfortable “digs”. Stuart sounds as welcoming as all the other Scots I have met.
……
Back onto the roads out of Buckie. We rolled down to the harbour where I expected to find a fish processing plant. Instead there were large trucks pulling out of Forsyths fabrication plant. The company has been around since 1890. It specializes in oil and gas projects ….. and alcohol beverage industries including turnkey distillery design! There you go. If you need an oil rig or distillery go to Buckie.
What I really expected was a typical fishing harbor scene with commercial fishermen with their boats alongside casual ones. They were all there too.
…. but also one of Macduff Shipyard sites.
https://www.macduffshipyards.co.uk/
My point being that this little town on the Moray Firth has a lot going for it.
Our route took us along the Moray Firth to Portknockie, Cullen and Portsoy(Aberdeenshire).
A church at Portknockie.
The photogenic viaduct at Cullen. There is actually a cycleway on it…. but somehow we took a wrong turn and got to enjoy the beach instead.
This interesting building is the « Cullen Beach Burger » and Golf Course welcoming « Non members and dogs »
Note the rock on the right…. It is on the edge of a big water hazard.
Our treat was this path along the beach then a climb up to the viaduct height to join the route and get wide views of Cullen from above.
High above the shoreline and a bit inland we were back to rolling agriculture and lovely quiet roads.
Our parh took a turn to the water at Whitehills as a last chance before heading inland at Banff. We weren’t disappointed. The harbour was typically « quaint » and immediately opposite… with bicycles leaning against the walls… was « The Gallery Whitehills Waterfront Cafe and Fish Restaurant ».
Ralph was thrilled. The cheese cake with cream and cream sauce lived up to his expectations!
As you can see, it is a popular spot for local cyclists.
Of course in Scotland you have to see a castle or two every day. Today’s is the ruin of one close to Banff but I can’t identify it. It could be the Findochty Castle … or maybe not.
Further along the road…I think this lady is going to eat those geraniums.
While these are happily grazing with the three turbines of the Hill of Skilmafilly Windfarm in the distance.
Then it was on to Tarves where Ralph’s hotel was waiting on a pleasant village green.
I continued about 9 miles on quiet roads and dedicated cycleways to Oldmeldrum and the welcoming lights of the Redgarth Inn.
Stuart saw me coming up to the front and came to open the door, registered me and had my bike locked away safely for the night in his office.
My room was a luxurious suite with a spa bathroom. I showered and headed out my door to the dining room. I met two young Americans who had also just arrived and were navigating the twists and turns of the BnB as well.
We entered the warm dining room and were met with what could only be described as « joviality ». It was just a happiness that permeated the full bustling space. Stuart was smiling and chatting at every table as he also served drinks and made everyone feel at home. It is easy to see why his business has flourished for thirty years.
I had a reservation and was led to my table right away. My two young friends were left waiting at the door so it only seemed right to ask if they would like to join me and use my otherwise empty chairs.
Supper with Dane (Grand Rapids Michigan) and Cooper (Brooklyn) was a delight. These two brothers leave their wives behind and head out for a football (soccer) long weekend every year to watch their favorite teams play « in person ». They had several games lined up including one in Manchester and Liverpool. All had been canceled due to the state of mourning over the death of Queen Elizabeth.
Their family had Scottish roots so they rented a car and were enjoying what Scotland has to offer. So far they decided it was far better than only seeing the inside of football stadiums and bars!
It was a very nice end to another great cycling day.
Safe travel.
Lorraine