Day 42 - Sunday Oldmeldrum to Aberdeen
Quick facts:
Weather forecast: Sunny with cloudy periods becoming cloudy. H 19 L 13 C
Wind SSW 2 kph
Humidity at 6 am 90%
POP 7% this afternoon
Departure: Redgarth Hotel Oldmeldrum
Destination: Travelodge Aberdeen Central 9 Bridge Street, Aberdeen AB11 6JL
Planned distance (from Pitmedden): 17.9 mi
Planned ascent: 755
Planned descent: 853
Route: this is from Pitmedden not Oldmeldrum. Note Oldmeldrum to the west of Pitmedden.
Photo from Ride With GPS
Good morning / Good-day.
I woke up to luxury… grey morning dawn coming through the skylight! Birds singing… another good day is coming up.
I said goodbye to my American friends Dane and Cooper and wished them happy travels as they enjoyed their unplanned time.
I was surprised to see Stuart serving us our breakfast because he was also in the restaurant late last night. He just seems to love what he does.
He was quite interested in the planning that went into Ralph’s routes and I think he will cycle some of the roads we have covered. In the meantime Stuart gave a generous donation to Haven House as he sent me on my way.
This sign caught my eye on the side of a factory wall in Newmacher.
So there is no excuse if I wanted a kilt and didn’t come home with one.
It was Sunday morning and my route took me out of town on a very quiet A947 through fertile farmland across the River Don at the aptly named Town of “Bridge of Don” and into Aberdeen
I cycled past Seaton Park and onto the cobbled roads of the University of Aberdeen.
I pondered what 1494 to 1912 represented. I only got 51% in grade 10 latin which means that at best I may be able to decipher every other word on the gate.
Google explained that 1494 refers to the founding of the University of Aberdeen and 1912 refers to when the New King’s Gateway was built.
Kings College was built with a Catholic chapel and was the third independent university in Scotland. It is now a part of the University of Aberdeen which united Marischal College and King’s College in 1860.
The Crown Tower was built in 1500 and the chapel consecrated in 1509.
The University of Aberdeen prepared a YouTube video of its accomplishments in the past 525 years. I found it very interesting.
Its accomplishments are extensive and impressive. Medicine seems to be at the forefront…. But how about color photography about 150 years ago?
The philosophy of the founder was: “Open to all and dedicated to the pursuit of truth in the service of others”.
Bishop of Aberdeen and Chancellor of Scotland William Elphinstone - 1495.
My GPX route wiggled me through a very picturesque part of town and up to the
row of granite buildings along Union Terrace. These were just past the William Wallace and Prince Albert statues on the way to the Travelodge.
As it turned out, the Queen’s body was passing through Aberdeen at the same time I arrived. She was a remarkable woman and did her job with dignity and devotion for seventy years. Not many can claim that. I admire her and think of her fondly.
Unfortunately I didn’t plan my day properly to take in this historic event. We were only cycling 28 miles today with the intention of having time to see the city so I could have planned better. 7 options for 12 hours inAberdeen
The Queen’s hearse and motorcade stopped at Duthie Park at 11am. I was in Aberdeen at that time and the downtown core was absolutely deserted as you can see in my picture of Union Terrace. No people and no vehicles. When I finally found someone to talk to they told me that the motorcade had passed through 20 minutes previously… at the park. I had passed signs pointing to Duthie Park and could have paid my respects if I had just Googled the route and schedule at breakfast.
This was a photo a shopkeeper had put in his window. There were similar displays all over Britain.
Instead of being in Duthie Park I was in a very quiet downtown, where I found the Travelodge in a convenient central location. I carried my bike up the stairs to the main floor reception and into my room. I helped Ralph find the hotel and hidden entrance steps and get settled too when he arrived from Tarves and then I headed off as a tourist.
One thing apparent right away is that Aberdeen is a city of architecture.
All regular tourist events such as Hop on Hop off bus tours were canceled during this time of mourning. I wandered to the waterfront and found the Maritime Museum which surprisingly was open.
https://www.aberdeencity.gov.uk/AAGM/plan-your-visit/aberdeen-maritime-museum
Out in front is a delightful pair of statues which is a Fishing Industry Memorial.
Inside was an informative summary of the importance of the sea and how the sailors of Aberdeen have worked with it to forge a living and many industries. All the museums in Scotland are free and are available to everyone on a “donation if you wish” basis. This is just another endearing aspect of Scotland . I stayed until it closed at 4:00.
The part of the photo cut off says the deepest Oil well is a Russian one, 7.7 miles deep!
It is incredible that any work could be done at those depths especially in a suit like this one:
Aberdeen Maritime Museum.
Use the following pros and cons to see if you want to get a Newt Suit:
Aberdeen Maritime Museum
…. and lots of art and models.
Aberdeen is the port to the North Sea Oil beds which we had a taste of on our ferry ride across the Cromarty Firth to Cromarty September 8th.
Aberdeen Maritime Museum.
When King David I came along and gave Aberdeen Royal Burgh status in 1136 its course as an international trading center was set. I left
the museum to explore the city further.
Without the choice of using real live tour guides, I did the next best thing and downloaded the Viator self guided walking tour. It was excellent and gave me the overview of the main downtown core with many interesting stories.
Just for a start, Aberdeen has been “on the map” at the mouth of the Abra river since Roman times.
The tour …aptly called Aberdeen’s Union Street: A self Guided Tour ($7.25 CAD) started at the far end of Union Street and guided me along Union, Union Terrace, Bridge and the main cross streets of downtown Old Aberdeen for the next three hours.
Some highlights:
Gilcomston Church has an impressive spire and architecture but also a more modern story of becoming a notably evangelical congregation after the war and ultimately leaving the Church of Scotland in 2013.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilcomston_Church
Further along the street is The Grill 213 Union St. It is infamous for not allowing women until 1975 legislation forced a change of policy. It’s
website now extolls the virtues of its wide range of Scottish Malt wiskey; the fact that it is a standup pub and is the oldest pub in Aberdeen still used as a pub. This makes it old!
Canada House 201 Union Street with an Indian Chief carved above the door.
I turned left onto Union Terrace, past the granite townhouses I had cycled past a few hours ago and down to the bottom of the hill where three prominent buildings are lined up.
The Aberdeen Central Library first built by Andrew Carnegie the Scottish- American philanthropist - richest man in the world in 1901.
Aberdeen St Mark’s Church of Scotland
His Majesty’s Theatre with the striking green dome.
As a result, this part of town was called the “Education, Salvation and Damnation” corridor.
Across the street in the pedestrian area are two prominent statues.
Prince Albert, Queen Victoria husband sits sedately.
William Wallace is in a more defiant stance. He was born c1270 and died August 23, 1305. He was a freedom fighter and Scottish hero.
This all started in 1296 when King Edward I of England came along and threw the Scottish King, John de Balliol into prison. This didn’t go over well with Wallace who had success pushing back the British in the Battle of Stirling Bridge 1297. Things didn't turn out well for Wallace in the end. By 1305 when Wallace was finally captured he was condemned as a traitor with no trial, hung, drawn and quartered. His left quarter is buried in the very ancient St Machar’s Cathedral which itself has an interesting history.
This explains the quotation on the base of the statue.
“To Edward, King of England, I cannot be a traitor. I owe him no allegiance; he is not my sovereign. He never received my homage and whilst life is in this persecuted body, he never shall receive it.”
Speech of Wallace at his mick trial in London.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Wallace
It is interesting to think of this history on a day when Queen Elizabeth is being given such respect by crowds in Aberdeen.
Along with the name “Granite City” Aberdeen could be called the city of church spires.
Count the spires of the growth of churches…
Rabbie Burns (1759 -1796) 1786 poem To A Mountain Daisy… the statue has him holding a daisy and reflecting on its fate and his. The poem was precipitated by his turning one over with his plow.
King Edward VII dubbed the Peacemaker because of his good relations with France. Queen Victoria’s son; king 1902 to 1910.
Union Bridge was built by Tiomas Fletcher but designed by Thomas Telford. Telford only wanted it 40 feet wide.It is the largest single span granite bridge in the world. It has since been widened so Union Street doesn’t have to narrow to cross the river. Telford would be displeased but the motorists are happier.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Bridge,_Aberdeen
The bridge had many leopards called Kelly’s Cats, added during the widening of 1908. There are lots of stories about being variously decorated.
As soon as I crossed the bridge my tour took me down Belmont Street where down an alley are several tiles on the wall.
These are honoring strong Scottish women and acknowledging the death of 3,800 women, mostly old and wise, who were killed in the witch hunts which started around 1590.
There is also a tile which is a tribute to Scottish women of strength advocating for many causes, a principle one being the right to vote.
Royal Bank of Scotland was
founded in 1928 as the National Commercial.
This imposing building was to evoke the feeling of Stability, Strength, Presence and power. The bank was a major player in the banking crisis of 2008.
Marischal College dominates Broad Street. It is arguably the most beautiful granite building anywhere and the second largest granite building in the world.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marischal_College
https://www.abdn.ac.uk/about/campus/marischal-college-394.php
My photo doesn’t do it justice.
Marischal College.
As mentioned above, it is part of the University of Aberdeen but currently is used only to hold its museum pieces. Its main use is for civic offices. The night I was there it was being used for a performing arts event.
George Keith, the Fifth Earl of Marischal was interested in modern ideas during his time at King’s College. He founded Marischal College and offered King’s College the opportunity to participate in this venture. They refused and a rivalry was initiated. This all happened in 1593.
One thing both colleges had in common was their support of the Jacobites. This all ended badly in 1715 for both colleges. In 1860 King’s College and Marischal College joined as the University of Aberdeen.
Robert the Bruce, King of Scots 1306 to 1329 is remembered on the terrace in front of the ornate building. It is too bad Wallace didn’t experience this victory.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_the_Bruce
Jan 1 1801 Union Street is named after The Acts of Union 1800 legislation was passed in Ireland and by the parliament of Great Britain codifying the union with the Kingdom of Ireland.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acts_of_Union_1800
The elegance of Union Street endures but apparently Aberdeen went bankrupt in 1817 following the building of Union Street including Union Street bridge which was designed to give a grand entrance to the town.
Shiprow, the street down to the port flanked by granite buildings on both sides facing the wide street.
My tour ended in the market square where the Market Cross showed that this burgh had the authority to have a market. The market square was not only the place for trade and commerce but also the centre for social events ranging from hangings to celebration. On this wet evening it provided a dry spot for the homeless.
Today Aberdeen is a city embracing modern technology and supplying the visitor with welcome and warmth as I have experienced in all of Scotland.
…. and all are welcome in Aberdeen!
Safe travels
Lorraine